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Rock Climbing > Outdoor Routes

 

Rock Climbing in Malaysia | Batu Caves

Photos by Mike Tee (http://www.densityonline.com)

Damai

Damai is an excellent spot for beginners and casual weekenders alike to try out rock climbing. It is the most accessible climbing location around, and even has car parks and shelters built right in front of the wall itself.

The routes at Damai are by far the most beginner-friendly - with a lot of jugs and features on the rocks. There are over 30 routes and a couple of multi-pitches, with grades starting from the easiest of 5C's.

The most obvious feature of Damai is a huge cave about 20 metres up, with a large boulder "stuck" inside it.

 

Nyamuk

Nyamuk is the latest climbing hot spot in Batu Caves, housing a vast number of routes ranging from the easy 5B's to one of West Malaysia's hardest climbs, an 8A route. In fact, at time of writing, there's even an open project still unclimbed and ungraded.

Nyamuk means "mosquito" in Malay, although its numbers have reduced significantly ever since a major clean-up effort of the area among the climbers.

The routes in Nyamuk offer a wide diversity of limestone rock and a good number of them are 20+ metres long. So, a 60-metre rope is definitely necessary when you climb at Nyamuk. There are also plenty of bouldering routes, so bring along your crashpads!

The grades at Nyamuk are significantly harder than those at Damai's, but it is very much on par with the ratings of international standards.

Nyamuk was developed almost exclusively by Blocx (www.blocx.com) with the help of some local climbers.

For the latest updates on the rock climbing scene at Nyamuk, visit the Nyamuk section at rockclimbing.com.

 

White Wall

White Wall offers some very technical climbs on smooth, longish routes for climbers who want some challenge in their rock climbing. Route difficulty starts from 6A and above. Some of routes, especially the second pitches, can be climbed on trad. The area is accessible on foot from Damai.

 

Red Rocks

Red Rocks is a small area to the east of Damai and is accessible on foot through the houses.

The crag is instantly recognizable from the color of its rock. The difficulty of the routes range from 5C to 7B. Most of the routes present a wide array of features involving stalagtites, stalagmites, overhangs and hidden pockets.

 

Rock climbing at Nanyang, Batu CavesNanyang

Nanyang is easily accessible by road - no hiking or bush beatings required. Routes vary between easy 5c to hard 7c, mostly concentrated on the 6a to 6c range. Highest route goes up to 30m, though some are broken up into pitches.

 

Comic Wall

Comic Wall is home to a range of beautiful overhanging routes. The area is nicely sheltered from the rain, so it's the best place to climb when the clouds start pouring.

The routes range from 5C's to 7A's, and most are very technically and physically-challenging. It's the best place to practise your overhang techniques!

However, bring along plenty of mosquito coils and insect-repellants. There are lots of mosquitoes around evening.